Chokhelao Bāgh

Mehrangarh fort, one of India’s most majestic forts is steeped in historic grandeur, and takes us back to the era when Jodhpur’s Maharajas reigned over the region of Marwar (what is now in the state of Rajasthan). Walking through its great halls and courtyards, one experiences the majestic and eventful lives of Jodhpur’s royalty. Mehrangarh is also home to one of the finest examples of Indian gardens, the Chokhelao bāgh. Originally laid out in the 18th century by Maharaja Abhai Singh, this garden has been restored over a period of ten years, and is back to its lush and fresh green self.

The entrance

The entrance

Planned as a terraced Chahar-bāgh, the Chokhelao bāgh is very much like an oasis in the middle of the desert coloured Mehrangarh fort. A quiet and tranquil space that provides the much needed shade and cool to a thirsty and exhausted visitor.

Like an oasis in the middle of the desert coloured fort..

Like an oasis in the middle of the desert coloured fort..

The garden of Chokhelao, the only garden within the Mehrangarh fort, was laid out 1739 A.D. by Maharaja Abhai Singh, as an extension to the Chokhelao palace. Inspired by the Mughal Chahar bāghs of the period, the Chokhelao bāgh is different in the way that it is designed; in response to the climate, to conserve water instead of celebrating it through channels and fountains.

The well at the centre of the Bagh

The well at the centre of the Bagh

Although the garden’s layout is based on the grid system of the traditional Chahar bāgh, the resemblance to the tradition ends here. The grids are made as pathways instead of water channels; the planting is tropical and at the centre of the garden is a large well, which is one of the main sources of water for the garden. There are a series of channels that run outward from the well, but these seem to be a means of irrigation, and are very modest in appearance.

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The flower garden

The garden is laid out in three terraced levels, and each level has specific theme attached to it. The plants in each terrace are responsible for providing the intended thematic experience. The first level is the Flower garden or ‘Phool-bāgh’ (‘Gul-i-stan’ as described in the Persian texts on Paradise gardens), to be viewed essentially during the day. Borrowing from the paintings of the period, each bed has been choreographed for an attractive mix of colour and texture.

The moonlight garden

The moonlight garden

The second level is the Moonlight garden or ‘Mehtab-bāgh’, to be enjoyed during the day, but especially during the night, with the fragrance of the flowers wafting through the air. The Mehtab-bāgh became an essential component of medieval gardens of the region. As compared to the bright colours of the Phool-bāgh, the plants here are visually very soothing, with white flowers that are clear visible in the moonlit night.

The orchard

The orchard

Finally, the third level is the Orchard garden or ‘Bo-stan’ (meaning ‘fruit garden’ according the Persian texts on Paradise gardens). Not only did the fruit trees help sustain the garden on economic terms, but were an integral part of Indian culture, symbolizing life and prosperity. These trees also help to create a favorable microclimate in the hot and arid Jodhpur climate. In addition to the terraced levels, the bāgh is surrounded by the fortification wall of the fort. The ramparts of this wall are great viewing points for any visitor to get a sky view of the garden. Set against a perfectly blue sky, the sand- coloured Mehrangarh fort forms a background to the lush green carpet of the Chokhelao bāgh.

When the garden was restored back to glory recently, great care seems to have been taken in the design of details like the signage, information booklets etc. Fossilized sandstone slabs with subtle lettering and symbolic graphics make up the signage. Such kind of detail is what is often missing in most of our designed landscapes and this garden serves as a great example of the important role signage plays especially in restored landscapes.

Truly a garden for the five senses, the fragrant plants species selected on a seasonal, diurnal and nocturnal basis heighten the sense of ‘smell’, the varied range of textures heighten the sense of ‘touch’, the variety of fruit trees provide for an elevated sense of ‘taste’, myriad colours of the flowering plants highlight the sense of ‘sight’ and providing an environment whereby the rustling foliage of trees and the birdsong bring music and ‘sound’ to the garden.

We leave you with a few more clicks to enjoy..!

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